Aid Climbing at Looking Glass
I decided if I’m going to get up El Capitan I need to learn how to aid climb better. These pictures were all during from my first visit to the South Side of Looking Glass yesterday.
I decided if I’m going to get up El Capitan I need to learn how to aid climb better. These pictures were all during from my first visit to the South Side of Looking Glass yesterday.
Met my friend Steve in Brevard and spent a day a sunny day at Cedar Rock. It was my first time climbing there. Lots of water coming down but we managed to find some parts that were (mostly) dry. Steve was a big factor for me getting back into climbing after moving to Missoula and it was great to meet up with him in the east.
3 days at the Red with Tucker.
The first day we got our butts kicked trad climbing, ending with my first rappel in the dark after starting some adventure-chimney route near dusk. The start was a small roof where you are hanging from 2 hand jams after scrambling up a little ways, pretty serious for 5.8 I thought.
By the third day we left the trad-rack in the car. (gasp)
All the climbers we met were friendly, the sandstone was solid and varied, and the woods had a welcoming deciduous forest softness to them.
Last week I drove up to the Red River Gorge and did a few days of climbing there. I was lucky enough to meet Alex at Miguel’s Pizza after about 5 minutes of trying to find a partner. He turned out to be an awesome guy and super-fun to climb with.
This was the first climbing I have done since leaving Montana and my first time climbing in the east in nearly 10 years. I hope to go back again in the next week or so.
Went up a big rock yesterday with Conor. The day ended up being much colder than we anticipated due to a constant 40mph (or so) wind.
I discovered that a camera of mine I thought was broken works as long as I don’t use the zoom.
Warning: the following captions contain some climbing jargon that can be hard to decipher if you aren’t familiar with climbing-specific vocabulary.
I met up with my man Busy S. in Moab and we road bikes out Potlatch road and drove down to the creek that evening. The next day we road to the Needles of Canyonlands surrounded by warmth and sunshine. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures.
Busy left to go back to Denver and for the next 3 days we climbed at Cat Wall, Donnelley Canyon, and 1st Meat Wall.
Find sharp things to bash stuff with because it is time for some ice climbing. Big ups to Cole Lawrence for enabling me to participate in this activity for the first time ever.
Yesterday Conor, Tess, Steve and I went out to Kootenai Canyon. I was proud of myself for getting to the top of Venus deMilo, at 5.11d my hardest route attempted on lead ever.
Also, on Saturday I did my first rope solo in Lolo with Conor. Rope-soloing means you are using a rope to protect your falls but no one is belaying you. I think I might be a fan.
The quality of the rock was excellent. We traded leads and moved quickly as retreating if the weather got bad would be rather difficult.
We set our alarms for 4:30am but I was awake before then. We made breakfast in the dark and set out to find the base of the route. About halfway there it was light enough to not need headlamps anymore. Our plan was to do the Beyer East Face I, and we were at the base of the climb before 7am.
I spent the last couple days climbing the Grande Teton with my friend Conor. It was beautiful and humbling. Before you climb you hike 7 miles, gaining around 5000 ft of elevation.