...Started in time to hear 3 am on the bridge. About 4, saw a bright fire on the rocks of the Anteleo high up, a hunter. Soon after, Venus rose behind a rock so bright as to throw a decided shadow. Jupiter overhead. Dawn approached and grew as we reached the Cassera. At 5 we waited nearly half an hour while I screwed in points to my boots in the hut...
'the real ascent begins... at first probably easy but after some rocks with plants on the ledges you take to the debris, very long and fatiguing. Snow leads to the last debris, and finally a small platform. The guide told me that was as far as we could go and my pointing to a ridge terminating 80' or 100' high, he said there was no use going there as the view was interrupted by a higher and inaccessible point. I said "let us go there at all events..." The guide implored me to desist...With a little caution in passing from one jagged and rotten tooth to another I gained the ridge. Easy, safe - about 200 yards long. Top exactly at one.